Discovering Ireland: My Emerald Isle Journey

A Land of Lush Landscapes and Warm Hospitality

The Emerald Isle had been calling my name for years, with friends describing its beauty and lush greenery. And boy, was it green.  Apparently, there are 40 shades of green in Ireland! The exception was The Burren, a striking rocky expanse along the Atlantic Ocean, where fascinating caves, ancient fossils, and unexpected wildflowers create a dramatic contrast. For me, travel is not just about seeing new places; it’s a journey of the mind and spirit, broadening my worldview. Immersing myself in different environments, experiencing diverse cultures, languages, and ways of life, and engaging with locals who provide new perspectives on contemporary life and the enduring legacy of historical events—from Celtic roots and Viking invasions to monastic influences and the poignant history of the Irish Famine.

 

Hitting the Highlights: Dublin, Cork, and Galway

After meticulously researching group tours of Ireland, their itineraries, top destinations in Ireland, I focused on Dublin, Cork, and Galway. These vibrant cities offered a delightful mix of shopping, live music, and convenient day trips to stunning destinations like the Ring of Kerry and the Cliffs of Moher. As a solo traveler, this itinerary provided the perfect balance between exploration and relaxation, with ample opportunities to meet fellow adventurers. I strategically selected hotels near city centers, allowing me to retreat for a bit and venture out again without the hassle of transportation. Notably, Ireland was the first country where I wasn’t charged ahead of time for my hotel—simply holding my room with a credit card and paying at the end of my stay. After securing flights and accommodations, I eagerly booked tours and activities through Viator and GetYourGuide that matched my interests.  Solo travel doesn’t mean you’re alone all the time; joining group tours allows for meaningful connections, as I’ve experienced in Greece, Portugal and Peru.

 

Train Travel: A Scenic & Stress-Free Adventure

Many people asked if I planned to drive in Ireland. My answer? Absolutely not! The thought of navigating left-hand traffic on unfamiliar roads didn’t appeal to me. I was nervous just crossing the streets on foot. Thank goodness Ireland has the direction to look in large print at each crosswalk. I only crossed where there were pedestrian signal lights and I waited for the light to become green. 

Instead of driving I opted for the train, allowing me to relax and enjoy the stunning countryside, journal, or take a nap. Irish Rail made it incredibly easy, with clear signage and bilingual announcements – Irish then English – which led to a hilarious discovery; every time I heard the station announcements in Irish, they seemed to finish with “…here and now.” It wasn’t until my return trip to Dublin that I realized they were saying “Iarnród Éireann,” which means Irish Rail!  

Suggestion: If you decide to go to Galway from Cork, look at taking the bus. I took the train and I had to travel from Cork to Dublin, then Dublin to Galway. It took most of the day; but still enjoyable.

 

Dublin Delights

Dublin was an obvious choice for me given it is a city brimming with history and charm and was easy to explore on foot.  My hotel, Travelodge Plus, was perfectly located for sightseeing – the River Liffey, Trinity College, and Temple Bar were all within walking distance.  To my delight, they even had a room available when I arrived at 6 am, allowing me to freshen up and start exploring straight away.  But what truly made Dublin special was spending time with my beautiful, brilliant, Dubliner friend who I met on a trip to Peru in 2022. She generously took two days off work to be my guide, and we had an amazing time together.  Another soul sister abroad found.  We explored iconic landmarks like Trinity College, Saint Stephen’s Green, the Ha’penny Bridge, Grafton Street.  I fell in love with the Georgian architecture and the colorful front doors of homes.  My taxi driver would tell me the vibrant colored front doors is to help identify their house after an evening at the pub.  We also soaked in the lively atmosphere of Temple Bar, despite warnings about the overpriced food and drinks, with her son and daughter making it a special moment. 

Even if you’re not a fan of beer (like me!), I recommend the self-guided Guinness Storehouse tour. It’s a fun and informative experience that explores the history and brewing process.   By the time we were done the tour I was ready to try the 4 ingredients, 95% water, slow pour award winning Irish Stout.  While I can’t say it tasted drastically different from other beers, my pint on the rooftop bar with my friend looking out at a stunning view of Dublin was a memorable experience. A tip: reservations are essential, especially if you want to avoid an 11 am Guinness like we had! 

Sadly, my friend and I did not “break the G” on our first drink.  Her son would tell me later that it is a learned talent.

Should you need something to eat before your Guiness tasting, there is a café inside to grab a quick bite as my friend and I did.  We had tried to grab a latte and pastry at Butler’s Chocolate Café before going, however they had not opened for business yet. 

I do recommend getting a latte at Butler’s Chocolate Café, they include a chocolate truffle of your choice.  There are so many flavors, it is hard to choose.

 Another highlight was a traditional Irish dinner and entertainment show. While I didn’t get to participate in learning a jig (someone else won the chance!), the music and dance were captivating. I spent most of the show swaying and clapping along, completely immersed in the atmosphere.

Beef and Guiness stew – delicious.

Heeding my rule for getting and staying outside to fight jetlag, I experienced my first day in Dublin on 3 hours of “sleep” during my flight.  I crashed when my head hit the pillow at 11pm.

 

Beyond the City: Glendalough and the Wicklow Mountains

My first venture into the Irish countryside was a day trip to Glendalough (pronounced Glen-da-lock) in the Wicklow Mountains. This serene area, with its scenic lakes, valleys, walking trails, and monastic site, reminded me of my hometown in Pennsylvania—only much greener! It was a photographer’s paradise, and I relished capturing the beauty of the 7th-century graveyard.

Here’s a valuable tip for anyone taking tours, always be back at the designated meeting point on time, if not a little early. Our driver on the Glendalough tour was a stickler for punctuality. The bus was about to leave without five passengers who were running late, and his stern lecture served as a reminder to be respectful of others’ time.  And each tour guide I encountered would highlight not to be late returning to the bus on time. 

Even with this awkward experience, I found the tour guides to be friendly, knowledgeable, and always bringing “the crack” as they say, which means fun.  They would tease and tell funny stories like:

An Irish university had successfully cloned sheep with giraffes.  As we drove past a farm, he suddenly exclaimed, “Look, there they are!”  We all turned to see… a farm full of llamas. 

Taking us to see the oldest tractor around, which he hoped would be in use today.  As we pulled off to the side of the road, he said, “I think I see it.”  We all got off the bus, and lo and behold, the “tractor” sauntered up.  It was a donkey.  Cutting-edge farming technology there!

A wishing well shaped like a small castle, rumored to be the home of leprechauns.  Legend had it that if you made a swish while tossing a coin into the fountain, a leprechaun would visit you at night to grant your wish.  Naturally, I had to give it a try. 

 

Cork: A Vibrant Second Stop

After 2 full days in Dublin, I board the Irish Rail for my 2 1/2-hour journey to Cork.  What enticed me about Cork was again it is a city, the second-largest city in the Republic of Ireland and has a lot to offer solo travelers. I debated between staying in Cobh (pronounced Cove) or Killarney, but ultimately, Cork’s vibrant atmosphere and range of activities made it the perfect choice. Killarney, while charming, felt more suited to couples looking for a romantic getaway.  Cork doesn’t feel like a city; it’s quaint and has a compact feel about it.  It has an Opera House, Art Gallery and several technology companies including the company for which I work.  I was able to walk from the train station to my hotel, The Metropole Hotel Cork, which was also centrally located and walking distance to the city center with shopping, pubs and the 18th-century indoor English Market for organic cheese and meat.  I spent my arrival day riding the hop on hop off bus to get my bearings, meandering the streets and practicing my photography skills. 

 

Coffee Shop Regulars

There’s something comforting about a familiar routine, especially when traveling solo. Around the corner from my hotel, I found a cozy coffee shop that became my morning haven. Sipping my latte and watching the street scene unfold became a delightful ritual.

One morning, a gentleman was perched a couple of seats away, engrossed in a book. We exchanged a polite nod, acknowledging each other’s presence in this little caffeine sanctuary. The next day, there he was again, book in hand, coffee at his side. This time, we ventured a friendly “hello.”

Day three arrived, and guess who was there? Yep, my fellow coffee connoisseur! A smile spread across both our faces as I blurted out, “Well, this is it! I’m out of here.  To which we both wished each other a good day and said good-bye.

Here we were, complete strangers, who enjoy coffee with some morning serenity. The simple things in life and it perfectly captured the sense of friendly connection you can find in the most unexpected places while traveling.

 

Blarney Castle, Cobh and Kinsale

Day two I took the County Cork Highlights Day tour which included Blarney Castle and Gardens, yes, I attempted to kiss the blarney stone; I wasn’t close enough to the wall and that was ok because I really didn’t want to kiss a wall that thousands of people kissed, even if they do sanitize it between each person.  The climb up the tower was very tight going around in a circle so the steps are very narrow, along with the doorways.  Luckily the wait time was about 45 minutes; it went fairly quickly as I chatted and laughed with the folks in front and behind me and captured shots with my camera along the way. My tour guide told me later the tower is built that way to help fight any invaders; if you knock out the first guy, he’ll fall backwards on all the other men.  I don’t not if that is true or not; but it sounds good.   From there we went to Kinsale with century old streets and colorful shops, pubs and cafes, then to Cobh, a historic port town which was the last port of call for the Titanic.  Walking through the Titanic Museum reading and hearing the words of the people waiting to board the ship and begin a new life in a new world was sobering.  I would feel this again, while visiting the Titanic Belfast in Northern Ireland.  As we drove back to Cork, I thought how the landscape, and forests, aside from the lavish green, reminded me of the countryside in Italy, Nova Scotia, and Pennsylvania. 

 

Ring of Kerry and The Burren

The Ring of Kerry day tour began with a visit to Killarney National Park, where Ruby, the horse of my jaunting car, transported us through the stunning UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.  The Ring of Kerry’s lush rolling hills, lakes, and quaint villages were breathtaking, despite the non-beach weather in Waterville, where Charlie Chaplin once lived. At The Burren, I explored the Aillwee Caves, home to a fascinating 10,000-year-old bear bone discovered by a curious dog in 1976—a unique piece of Ireland’s history.

Ruby belongs to a loving farm family and works two days on and five days off with their dedicated coachman.

Sheep everywhere on the west coast of Ireland.  I’ve never seen so many sheep, each marked with a color, red, blue… to help the farmers identify ownership, health checks, specific ram they’ve been bred with.  One of my tour guides teased us by telling us it was a way to tell the Catholic Sheep from the Protestant.

 

Galway: A Warm Welcome

Galway welcomed me with gorgeous weather and a vibrant atmosphere. The outdoor market, lively pubs with traditional Irish music, and friendly locals exceeded my expectations. During a walking tour, I learned about Galway’s rich history, from the Tribes of Galway to the Lynch window. Remarkably, I met two fellow travelers from the next county where I reside in the USA; a reminder of how small the world can be. Sharing my solo travel experiences inspired them to consider their own adventures.

 

Day Tour to Cliffs of Moher

No trip to Ireland would be complete without visiting the Cliffs of Moher. I was fortunate to have perfect weather, allowing me to practice my photography skills while enjoying traditional music played by buskers. Friends and guides warned that visibility could be hit-or-miss, with some days so foggy you couldn’t see your hand in front of your face. The Cliffs, with their breathtaking views, were worth every step, despite the occasional incline or decline. The visitor center’s 4D Ledge Experience offered an interactive tour of the cliffs from various vantage points, adding to the magic of the experience.

Suggestion:  Savor the fish and chips in Doolin.  Light, flakey and not filling.

Try Pratai proper Irish chips. You get to choose toppings like Irish Sea Salt, Rosemary, and sauces like Market Curry mayo, to a Garlic Olio crème sauce.  Better than ketchup, or mayo, or cheese. 

 

Belfast: A City of History and Resilience

My last days were spent back in Dublin, with one more evening celebrating my birthday with my friend before a day trip to Belfast. I highly recommend dedicating at least a day to explore this city, rich with history and resilience. The Black Cab tour provided profound insights into the conflict known as The Troubles, with our drivers—one Irish Catholic and one English Protestant—sharing their experiences and humor.  Each laughing as they said, ‘now I’m going to tell you the truth’.  The conflict was so much more than religion, as I thought, and my tour guide did an amazing job conveying the full story in bite size chucks making it easy to understand.

Did you know the meaning of the colors in Ireland’s flag?  I didn’t.  Green symbolizes the Catholic religion. Orange represents the Protestant Christian religion.  White stands for the union between Catholics and Protestants.

The Titanic Belfast Exhibition was a poignant end to my journey, bringing the story of the Titanic to life with its construction, the launch, the maiden voyage, to the personal accounts, SOS messages, and a memorial to those who perished.  You will also learn what maritime policy changes have occurred as a result of the Titanic sinking: enough lifeboats for those onboard; mandated lifeboat drills; and radio communication to name a few.

No passport needed to travel between Northern Ireland and Republic of Ireland.  Driving between each is no different to driving from one Irish county or US state to another.  I don’t even recall seeing a sign.  

Traveling through Ireland was more than a sightseeing adventure; it was a journey of learning and understanding, making connections, and experiencing the warmth and hospitality of the Irish people.  My heart is full of gratitude for the opportunity to explore and connect with such a wonderful land.

I hope this blog inspires you to choose Ireland as your next destination, whether you’re traveling solo, with family and friends, or with a tour group. 

Until we meet again, Ireland. Slán agus beannacht!